Traveling up and down the Catalunya coast has become a way of life over the last four years. With a coastline dotted with countless seaside towns all boasting their own little slice of heaven, there's no shortage of weekend destinations to choose from.

The old town of Peñiscola

Living in a city like Barcelona, it's often easy to forget the world outside our city limits. And why not? We have everything we need here. Bordered by mountains and beaches, Barcelona is situated in a near perfect bubble bursting with eclectic neighborhoods, world-class restaurants, luscious parks, and a whole heap of bars and clubs to suit every taste. Now that summer is here, the city is alive...CONSTANTLY.

The view from our terrace

 It's February first which means we're officially in the dead of winter. The dazzling sunshine and brilliant blue skies have been chased from the city by rain and frosty temperatures. The truth is, we knew it would happen sooner or later. Not even a city as privileged as Barcelona can escape the wrath of winter. But let's face it - winter here can't really be considered "bad". It's barely even a spec on the yearly calendar - a time when the city continues to buzz with energy, just under umbrellas or inside the cafes. People continue to congregate in the plazas, meet friends for a coffee, and seize the remaining treasures in every possible retail establishment hoping to get the best bargains during "rebajas" season. It practically takes an act of God to bring this city to a halt, and there's talk of it coming this week. The white menace we call snow is looming on the horizon.

We didn't believe it would happen two years ago either. I went about my business as usual - got ready for work, took the metro to school, and brought my umbrella because of course it was raining. But one thing was noticeably different...it was COLD. The kids were consumed with excitement of an impending snow storm coming our way. They were the experts...they just KNEW it was going to happen. On the other hand, the adults know best and we knew there was no way it was going to happen. How wrong we were. The steady rain suddenly turned to a wintery white, and within minutes it was snowing with a fury! Before long it had consumed the whole of our campus and the surrounding area. It was gorgeous.

Reality set in after the magic of what was actually happening became all too real. How are we going to get home? Will school close early? I had grown accustomed to the protocol of the public school system when moments like this occur. But we have no district office to make district-wide decisions. Our official calls are made locally, and if we didn't act with the utmost precision, it could have turned into a crisis. The roads were slick and the school buses were going nowhere fast. It took just under an hour to get to the Diagonal, a major artery that usually takes five minutes to reach from school.

By this point the city began to buckle...people abandoned their cars and opted for the metro or tram. The metro became a massive mob of people desperately trying to get home, to get to safety. Eventually, even the metro was no longer an option and people were left to walk home, including Jeff! Fortunately for me I had arrived home hours before mayhem struck, which granted me the opportunity to soak in the silence that had squelched the buzzing energy of Barcelona. I have never known the city to be so peaceful since that March afternoon, and I can't help but wonder if history will repeat itself.

What's the big deal you ask? It hadn't snowed in Barcelona in over 40 years, and the "blizzard" made ASB history. The first ever Snow Day was made official on March 9, 2010!

Barcelona Blizzard 2010 by the Metropolitan

This month's issue of the Metropolitan, Barcelona's magazine for English speakers, featured an article that struck a chord with me. Entitled "Saying adéu for good", five former Barcelona residents talk openly about their reasons for leaving. For a moment I thought I'd find this article to be helpful seeing as though Jeff and I are struggling with making the same decision. However, the more I read the more I realized that none of the five people interviewed had lives that mirrored my own.

It's true that Spain is not well positioned economically, and in saying so this is potentially a good argument for relocating. The job market is grim, especially for young professionals, and the future is bleak for now. One family spoke of leaving because of the job market, but only because he had become redundant at his job. It's very difficult to "move up the ladder" based on merit as promotions tend to be based on experience and seniority. Nonetheless, Jeff is currently applying for internships, and he has submitted applications to companies far and wide, but in our heart of hearts we're hoping he'll secure something more local. Speaking Spanish fluently certainly works out to his advantage, as well as having a valid work permit, and landing an internship in Spain, or even Europe, will more than likely secure an international career path. Needless to say we are anxious to see how this will unfold.

Other complaints about living in Barcelona included a faltering education system, lack of community and a sense of belonging, and the ever present language barrier. Again I found it difficult to identify with any of these arguments. Education is certainly a real concern, and there's no doubt that the Catalan public schools leave much to be desired. But being connected to the network of international schools gives me a different perspective altogether. There are in fact many great schools in the city offering a top-notch education, and I happen to know some of the most fantastic teachers any child would be lucky to have. The reality is, however, that quality comes with a price making some of the best schools in Barcelona out of reach for many families. As for language and community, they go hand in hand in some regard. There are many internationals who simply do not make the effort to learn Spanish. As a result, interaction with the local community is greatly limited and the potential for building a meaningful life here is next to impossible. It came with a lot of work and effort, but Jeff and I both feel a sense of community and belonging which we are both grateful for.

What I ultimately took away from the article was a common thread among all five former residents: an unbeatable lifestyle. It turns out that almost all of them truly miss Barcelona and what it has to offer, and this is my greatest fear. I suppose it's a sacrifice either way, but where else are we going to find beautiful weather, proximity to the beach, mountains, and everything in between, a fascinating culture, and a high regard for embracing life to the fullest? The answer is, well, we don't really know! What we do know is that since living here we have been genuinely happy and that's not something easy to let go of.

Didn't we learn anything from Jack, Kate, Hurley and all the others? Once they left, all they wanted was to get back to the island.

*You can read more about Barcelona at the Metropolitan to keep informed about life and culture in the Catalan capitol.

Barcelona's Barri Gotíc is a labyrinth of narrow streets dotted with imposing cathedrals, shady plazas, and time forgotten mom-and-pop shops. It's the bustling epicenter of a modern, cosmopolitan city, but a stroll down some it's hidden alleyways will transport you to another time. One of my favorite streets happens to be in my own backyard: Calle de Petritxol.

While friends have jet-set all over Europe for recent holidays and long weekends, I've set out to rediscover my city. Setting to the streets with nothing but a camera allowed me to view Barcelona through a different lens...literally! I wasn't wandering the streets with a list of errands to run, or distracted by a phone call, or rushing off to work. Wandering...I was doing just that. I could have strolled to countless landmarks anywhere in the city, but without thinking I found myself in my absolute favorite plaza in all of Barcelona: Plaça Pi with Plaça Sant Josep Oriol. Tucked just behind the ever crowded and over commercialized Las Ramblas, Plaça Pi is a gem. No matter the season or time of day, there's a certain feeling of calm that consumes me every time I find myself here. I can sit here for hours with friends at a terrace cafe or simply browse the art collections and fresh foods market on the weekends. I am always at peace here with Santa Maria del Pi, the gothic cathedral standing proud over this little slice of heaven.

Just beyond Plaça Pi is a tiny gateway to another time: Calle de Petritxol. This is one of my favorite streets in all of Barcelona for a few reasons. For one, it's tiny! At the entrance from the plaza, I can almost touch both sides of the street with my arms outstretched. But don't be fooled for this street is a melting pot of old and new; vintage and modern; chic and bohemian. I can't get enough of it! While the store fronts have stolen my attention in the past, my camera encouraged me to look, well, up! I had never noticed that the street is illustrated with beautiful tile mosaics that essentially tell the story of this time-forgotten portal. Capes and top hats, horse-drawn carriages and lanterns of light - the street below may have evolved with the times, but the street above is of a bygone era. 

My walkabout didn't take me far, but I felt as though I had traveled to another time entirely. Returning home I felt relaxed, fulfilled, and awakened to the pulse of Barcelona once again.

 

 

 

           

As you well know by now, moving abroad has brought about many "firsts" and new experiences over the last three years. Though time has brought comfort and familiarity, at no other time is it more evident that "we're not in Kansas anymore" than during the holiday season. When a holiday like Thanksgiving simply doesn't exist, there's great deal of planning and improvising that has to happen. The one thing that doesn't change, however, is the anticipation of great food and great company to share these experiences with.

At some point during my carefully coordinated dance in the kitchen yesterday, I realized that it was, well, easy! The turkey had been brining all night, the cornbread was made, the side dishes and hors d'oeuvres were prepped, skype was my kitchen companion along with Michael Buble's Christmas serenade in the background. This was a turning point. Relatively speaking, preparing a Thanksgiving feast abroad had finally become a no-brainer! I stopped to reflect on our various turkey feasts over the years and I came to one conclusion...this year wasn't just seemingly easy. It WAS easy!

2008: Our first Thanksgiving was celebrated only about 6 weeks after moving to Spain. Being away from family for our first major holiday was yanking on our heart strings, so we planned to spend the holiday in Munich with Nathan, Shonda, and little Brianna-to-be. The universe had a special surprise for all of us, though, when baby Brianna decided to make her grand entrance a few weeks early! While Mommy and Daddy spent their first hours with their baby girl in the hospital, Uncle Jeff and Aunt Lauren prepared a Thanksgiving feast at the house. Reading labels in Spanish was challenging enough, but German?? Seriously?? In the end we pulled it off, packed everything to go, and brought Thanksgiving to the hospital. This takes the cake for the most chaotic yet memorable Turkey Day experience!

2009: This year we had just moved into our new apartment and we had only just begun to unpack. No big deal! Not even a partially furnished apartment could keep us from sharing one of our favorite holidays with friends. This would be our first Spanish Thanksgiving, so there was a lot of kitchen and cooking vocabulary building while searching the city far and wide for the right ingredients.This holiday was spent with Raúl and Marta, our Scottish friends Rob and Cat, their newborn Aurora, and even their parents who were in town to help with the wee one. I was stressed this time around, not being familiar with my kitchen and lacking essential gadgets, but in the end it was another success.

Thanksgiving 2010 and what's left of the turkey

2010: This year Thanksgiving was BIG. Enormous turkey (I couldn't lift it by myself), side dishes in massive quantities, and a crowd of 16...whoa! Prep started early in the morning, but luckily we had our dear friends Alex and Kelly in town to help us get organized for the impending feast. Our friends came from all over: Spain, Italy, Scotland, Venezuela, France, and the US. We asked our guests to contribute something to the dinner, and the dishes that were brought were very interesting! Even a typical Spanish tortilla found its place on the table. There was still a lot to be learned over the course of preparing this meal, but with the company of great friends and delicious food, the clean-up could wait until morning.

2011: A very successful Turkey Day! We had a much more manageable guest list this year which I think helped in easing my anxiety of entertaining a bit. In fact, not a single doubt crossed my mind this year that everything would turn out perfectly...not even when the water was turned off in our neighborhood for most of the day! We spent this year's Thanksgiving with our good friends Deby and Armando, Dawn and Francesc with their little boy Zach, and our new friend Dave. But the best part of this year's feast? Everyone helped with the clean-up and we woke up to a spotless apartment this morning. We've finally figured this thing out!

Our Thanksgiving family 2011

*A special thank-you to my Mom and Kirk. Thanksgiving wouldn't have been the same without your enormous care packages!

Standing on top of the waterfall at Pantana de Sau.

I've always been known as Snow White; someone who seems to have a sixth sense for communicating with animals. A recent moto adventure, however, proved that even the fairytale princess has her limits.

Having recently earned his moto license and a month of vacation, Jeff is not willing to let a single moment go wasted. So, an impromptu camping trip was in order with our friends Melissa and Carlos. After a day of offroading and gazing at waterfalls, we decided we'd set up camp for the night. The guys had a perfect spot in mind right on the edge of the lake, but access to this area required moving the electric fence that stood in our path. We noticed a herd of cows grazing just on the other side, but we proceeded anyway because afterall, what's a cow going to do??

We crossed the fence, feeling one step closer to some R and R, when we saw him, his horns like radar, sensing danger right in our direction. It was a bull, a monstrous beast programmed to protect his herd from any threat. In these situations we're cautioned to remain calm, make no sudden movements. Our reaction? RUNNNN!! The bull bucked and snorted after us as we wrecklessly sped from the pasture. We reached a tree lined clearing where we felt safe enough to dismount and breathe for the first time in what felt like minutes. We were terrified - shaken from the face-to-face encounter with a BULL.

A priority for setting up camp was to create a bull baracade. The guys positioned their bikes between trees in order to keep the herd at bay should they decide to wander in our direction overnight. We were safe, right? We couldn't have been more WRONG! We were woken by the sound of cowbells, not in the distance but right in our campsite!! Hearts pounding, we kept as quiet and calm as possible knowing the bull was somewhere nearby. Carlos and Melissa had the courage to unzip their front door just enough to find the bull literally standing right in front of them!! He was staring right into their tent sensing movement and smelling the air to assess any potential danger to his herd. He must have decided we weren't worth messing with and moved his herd beyond our campsite and over the hill.

This was our opportunity and we seized it. The herd had moved away from the pasture and we had clear access to the electric fence for what we knew would be a very limited time. Sure enough, just as soon as we were suiting up, the herd came back, the bull following up the rear and trapping us yet again. What were we going to do?! The fear set in again as the giant animal decided to stop in the middle of the road as if to say "just try me." He even took a few steps towards us just to make sure we got his message and then followed after the herd. We were trapped.

A fruitless attempt to find another way out left us with only one option - ask the fisherman who happened to be nearby to rescue us! Rescue us he did, giving us a ride in his luxurious Porsche Cayan right past the bull. He didn't even bat an eye! One problem still remained; we were out of harm's way, but how are we to spring the bikes from danger?? After a coffee and a discussion about strategy, the guys decided they would go back in on foot - on FOOT!? It was a scene straight out of a fairytale - the valiant heroes facing their doom to save their damsels in distress. Woe is me!

I've learned not to doubt Jeff's ideas, as crazy as they may be, because walking into the lion's den turned out to be the best strategy. The bikes were rescued and the road to safety was free...we live to see another adventure!

On the ninth of this month, we celebrated Jeff's first birthday abroad! My main goal was to ensure that he would enjoy this birthday...setting homesickness and frustration aside. I planned for it to be low key yet memorable, adventurous yet close to "home". Looking back, I can say with full confidence that those requirements were achieved. Since Jeff's actual birthday fell on a Monday, we decided to celebrate the weekend before. We both asked around the "office" about day trips from Barcelona that are worth the expense and easily accessible by train. After much deliberation (as it turns out there is a wealth of worthy day trips from the city), we finally decided to take a train along the coast to Tarragona. We woke up on Sunday morning, had our coffee, ate breakfast, showered, and we were on our way by 11. Taking advantage of the train certainly has it's advantages. For one, no one is having to focus on the road while the other is driving. And two, getting lost isn't an option!! There is no way this trip was going to cause stress of any kind. And for once, things worked out as planned!! The train left from Barcelona almost immediately after we had arrived at the station...I'm pretty sure that almost NEVER happens. After all, we are in Spain. We found 2 seats side by side as soon as we boarded, and we were lucky enough to be seated on the sea side of the train...even better! Departure went off without a hitch, and before we knew it we were gazing at some of the most beautiful coast line we had ever seen. Small fishing towns blanketed the seaside while modest yet charming homes sat nestled on the mountain sides. The winding coastal road was reminiscent of the Pacific Coast Highway in California while the train ducked in and out of neatly carved tunnels through the rocky cliffs. We were once again reminded of why were are here. After about an hour ride we arrived in Tarragona. The city, like the towns we had passed before it, boasts a beautiful coastline and a nearly ancient city resting on the cliffs above. We truly approached this day trip like a true Spaniard...we have no place to be, no schedule, no plan. One simple question set us on our journey: "Which way do you want to go?" "I don't know. Left looks good." And so we walked to the left, and thus our tour began. Walking to the left brought us to the port, which we decided to explore briefly. Our attitude towards ports is that once you've seen one you've seen them all. What we were really after were the ancient Roman ruins we had read so much about. Instead of figuring out our next plan of attack, our American impatience got the best of us and we decided to ask a local. Thankfully she pointed us in the right direction...to the right of course! Walking to the right led us back to the train station, and then to the rest of the quaint little city. We wound around the coast, found a quiet rocky cliff on the shore, and enjoyed our freshly packed lunch. This is something that Jeff and I both truly enjoy, and in our opinion there's no better place to relax than by the sea. From there we slowly began to make our way inland towards the city...I emphasize slowly because everything is uphill! After much climbing and many gasps for air, we knew we had made it when we reached the ancient Roman wall. The wall was constructed in the first century BC and it is MASSIVE. The heart of the city is still situated inside the wall, beckoning visitors to pass between the modern and ancient worlds. Our curiosity piqued, we anxiously stepped through the archway that paved the way to another world.
We found ourselves completely enveloped in the atmosphere. We found something unique around every corner...streets lined with orange trees, ancient Roman columns, beautifully ornate cathedrals, crumbling historic landmarks, a street market, and even a sappy tourist who was just as aw-struck as we were. I couldn't help but notice the cleanliness of the city and the lack of drying laundry hanging over every street. Every plaza featured and unobstructed view of either a cathedral or beautifully constructed government building, something that's rare to find in the center of Barcelona.
Beyond the aura of modern day Tarragona rests an ancient history. It's story is told around small street corners and city blocks. A cluster of crumbling columns and arches where a bustling forum once flourished, an amphitheater resting against the sea where ancient Romans were once entertained, and aqueducts squeezed between the mountains that once carried fresh water to the inner city baths and fountains. As we strolled through the streets, I couldn't help but get lost in the city that once was a territory of the most powerful empire that ever existed.
At around 5 Jeff and I decided to return home. As planned, the train arrived on time and we were home just over an hour later. On Monday, Jeff's actual birthday, we celebrated again. Jeff wanted a home cooked sub sandwich for dinner...easy enough! I surprised him with two of his favorite condiments...peanut butter (which we haven't had since we landed in Spain) and nutella. To top it off, he washed it all down with Hofbrau beer from Munich. What more could a guy ask for??

We finally made the move, and our feet are firmly planted on foreign soil. For better or for worse, we have left all things familiar behind. Only one question remains...now what??

We're living in a beautiful country filled with rich history and a flavorful culture, and our curiosity got the best of us. Having 10 days before work begins for me, we decided to set out on the first of many aimless adventures around the city. First order of business...where's the Metro? Fortunately for us, the Metro station for our neighborhood is only a 5 minute walk along railroad tracks, a dark alley, graffiti ridden walls, and up a shabby flight of steps. At first glance the pathway seems a bit "dodgey", but really the footpath is quite safe and people are always around.

Note: Graffiti is nothing out of the ordinary in Barcelona. You'll find it on every store gate when it is closed. There is an unwritten street "artist code" whereby once a property has been "tagged", it is unacceptable for other graffiti artists to paint over it. Naturally, merchants are dismayed to find graffiti on their property, but have learned to use it to their advantage. In fact, merchants will often pay a graffiti artist to paint an advertisement for the store while tagging the property with their signature at the same time. It's a win-win situation.
We made it to the metro station, and again...now what? After staring at ticket kiosks and metro maps long enough to be tagged as foreigners and non-native speakers, we decided push a random button, insert some money, receive a card, choose a train line, and GO. Where? Who knows! We can hardly pronounce the signs let alone understand them or place a destination on a map. Our only option was to hop on a train and see where we end up.

Note: EVERYTHING is written in Catalan...at least in the metro stations. And no, it's nowhere close to resembling Spanish! Who knew we would be trilingual?

Note: Maps are impossible to understand. Some are oriented north, while others are oriented around the major avenues. VERY frustrating when it's cold, raining, and your feet hurt.
In all fairness, I did have a destination in mind. I thought it would be nice to walk along the Avinguda de Diagonal which is a main avenue that bisects the city on, well, a diagonal. I did research Barcelona before arriving, and knew this would be a good place to begin looking for apartments as well. We soon arrived and were pleasantly greeted with charming old world-style buildings boasting ornate wrought iron terrace railings and decorative window moldings. As we walked along the bustling streets, we began to get a true sense of the laid-back Spanish lifestyle. Countless sidewalk cafes, small boutiques, bakeries, markets, schools, and churches peppered the avenues around every corner. We stopped in at a cafe for a "cafe con leche" to take in the sights, to experience the culture for ourselves, to people watch. Who were we not to!

Note: Mullets are amazingly popular. It's quite scary really...each successive mullet outdoes the last. We've learned that if you spot a mullet, most likely he or she is a true Catalunian. The mullet knows no boundaries.

Note: Fashion is quite interesting. People wear boots, scarves, and winter coats if the temp dips below 65 degrees.

Wondering around uncharted territory is quite exhausting, so we decided to find our way back. By the time we returned to "Placa de Sants", we had more or less mastered the integrated transit system. Hooray for our achievement!!

The following days were consumed with more aimless wondering, but we stumbled across some amazing places. Placa Catalunia, Las Ramblas, Parc Guell (Gaudi's take on Hansel and Gretel), Mercat de Santa Caterina (a HUGE market), Passeig de Gracia (think Rodeo Drive in LA...only much older and more charming), cathedrals hundreds of years old, aww-inspiring plazas, and the waterfront harbor filled with docked sailboats patiently waiting for their next sea adventure.

We have only begun to unlock the secrets of the city, and already we are overwhelmed by it's beauty and awe. What will tomorrow's adventure entail?